Q

My 3 year old Lhasa Apso has been throwing up orange liquid only in the morning.  He eats normally and has normal bowel movements.  I’m befuddled.  Thank you.

From Maura

A

Hi, Maura!  Hopefully you’ll be able to get his ‘morning sickness’ resolved.

If you are at all concerned that your dog may have eaten something, be sure to take him to your veterinarian for a physical examination and possibly even radiographs or further workup. 

Dogs can consume objects or material that become lodged in the stomach or other portions of the gastrointestinal tract that can cause intermittent vomiting while still allowing normal eating and bowel movements.  There are many other conditions that can cause vomiting, and a workup should always be performed first to make sure there isn’t something going on. 

Since the vomiting appears to be orange liquid and occurs in the morning, then there are some things you can try.  The first thing I would recommend would be to feed smaller, more frequent meals.  This can improve or resolve many cases of vomiting like what you are describing.  If your dog eats larger meals less frequently (especially when fed only once a day), then bile can build up overnight and can cause irritation as your dog’s hunger builds first thing in the morning in anticipation of the first meal of the day, leading to vomiting of bile (yellow/orange liquid). 

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Feeding smaller and more frequent meals throughout the day, with at least one of those meals occurring later in the evening, can help prevent this.  Make sure you know the amount of food to be fed daily appropriate for your dog’s weight.  This information should be available on the bag of food.  Divide that amount by the number of meals you are going to feed, (e.g. divide the daily amount of food by 3 for 3 meals per day, divide by 4 for 4 meals per day). 

Sometimes a change in diet may  also help but you should consult with your veterinarian prior to any diet change as they would be most familiar with any special dietary needs your dog may have.  Some dogs do have sensitivities to certain ingredients and choosing a diet with a novel protein and carbohydrate source can sometimes help. 

Hopefully you can improve things for your dog, yourself, and your floors with some of these suggestions.

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q

I have a new addition to our family: a 3 month old gray and black striped kitty named Snowball.  He loves to run and jump, especially on me and when my back is turned.  It is becoming increasingly painful.  How can I get him to stop?  I really would like to not be scratched on my back by this frisky kitty.

from Pam

A

Hi, Pam!  I too am the proud owner of a leaping kitty.  When he was a kitten, he would do exactly what you’re describing very regularly: he would leap onto my back and climb up on my shoulders (and head!) when my back was turned. 

The good news is that he has only jumped on my back once or twice in the last 6 years.  I have not run across this often but I will make some recommendations that may help. 

Provided that you feel this behavior is not aggressive in any way, we can approach this as simple kitten play behavior.  He has lots of energy and a nimble little body with which to expend it.  Many cats like to perch in high places, and if you’re much taller than your daughter, then you have been chosen as the highest point around.  There are many play structures you can pick up (or build if you are so inclined) that consist of a tall textured pole with a perch on top.  You need to convince him that this perch is the best place for him.  Encourage him to sit at the top, providing him with treats, praise, and attention when he does so. 

You can even use catnip (provided it doesn’t drive him into a frenzy) to attract him to the area.  When he appears to be in a playful mood, place him up there and reward him.  Even if you THINK he’s getting in ‘that mood’ place him up there and reward him. What you’re trying to do is associate the tendency he is experiencing with climbing onto the perch.  He needs to ‘get it out of his system’ and you want him to redirect towards a perch other than you. 

You could also try to ‘break’ the behavior by carrying around something that makes a loud nice that he dislikes, like a small can with pennies inside, and shake it loudly when you think he is about to leap.  This may halt his behavior and prevent him from getting to the point of leaping.  This method is much more difficult as you need to distract him at the moment BEFORE he leaps. 

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Remember, this behavior will likely disappear over time.  Your young kitty needs an outlet, so get the little guy some fun exercise and play where you control the action!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q

I’m having a problem with my dog, Brownie.  He seems to be scared when my boyfriend is around.  I just don’t know what to do.  Please help me.

From Lupita

A

Hi, Lupita!  Let’s see what we can do about getting Brownie warmed up to your boyfriend.

You should focus on creating positive interactions between Brownie and your boyfriend.  When your boyfriend is over any time near any of Brownie’s regular meal times, have him feed Brownie his meal.  You could also try picking up a new, special toy that only comes out when your boyfriend is over and only have your boyfriend give it to him.  Make sure it a toy that you think Brownie would really like! 

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Also, if your boyfriend doesn’t mind when he is over, have him perform behavior training exercises with Brownie much like ones you would have had with Brownie when he was a puppy.  Have your boyfriend get out a bag of small treats (nothing too high in calories if you can) and do some ‘sit’, ‘down’, ‘lie down’, and ‘stay’ type of exercises where Brownie gets rewarded with treats from your boyfriend.  Start as simple as possible where perhaps Brownie simply gets a treat for approaching or even looking at your boyfriend and work your way up to commands.  Hopefully, these positive interactions will lead to Brownie getting excited and happy when your boyfriend is around, and then you can start having him pat and give positive social attention to Brownie as he becomes more amenable to being approached by him. 

Hopefully these suggestions help improve the relationship between Brownie and your boyfriend!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q 

How do I introduce a new cat to my existing cat?

Amanda, Pennsylvania

A

Hi Amanda!  Glad to hear that you’re looking to bring another kitty cat into your family.

Introducing a new cat to a household is certainly something that requires patience and planning and it’s nice to see that you are giving it some thought.  Introducing a new cat can stress out the new cat as well as the established cat and can even lead to unwanted behavioral and medical problems.  First of all, take your new cat to your veterinarian for a complete physical examination and to be checked for parasites and contagious diseases such as Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV).  Also ask your veterinarian about feline facial pheromone diffusers and sprays that may help you with your situation. 

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Once you’re sure that your new cat is healthy and has been fully vaccinated, then it’s time to start introducing the cats to one another.  Have a room prepared for the new cat where you can have separate food, water, and a litter box with a closeable door with a little bit of space between the bottom of the door and the floor.  Bring your new cat into the house in a pet carrier past the resident cat and into this prepared room.  The new cat will spend all of their time in this closed room while the two cats get to know one another’s sounds and smells across and under the closed door without having to confront one another directly and visually.  Don’t be surprised if the cats hiss, growl, or even scream at one another at first;  that is normal. 

Also make sure you spend time every day socializing and playing with each cat in their respective area during this period.  Once the two cats appear to be at ease with one another across the bottom of the closed door, and this may takes days or even weeks, and on a day when you’re home to observe them, open the door and allow the two cats to seek one another out on their own.  Do not force them together.  Let them work things out on their own unless you believe they are doing each other physical harm.  After some time, you can start playing with them together with a common toy and feeding them together.  Consider keeping at least one litter box per cat and, if your home has multiple floors, consider keeping an additional box on each of the other floors.  As far as getting a declawed cat is concerned, that will be entirely your personal preference. 

I hope this information helps you.  Enjoy your new cat!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q

From Barbara

I have a yorkie pup almost 4 months old. He tears up everything, barks and bites a lot, and chases my 3 yr old. How can I calm him down?  Also, what is the way to groom him a certain look? His hair is oily is that right? 

A

Hi Barbara!  Sounds like your new puppy is keeping you busy.

The short answer is that your puppy has a lot of excess energy and drive and until he matures a bit, you may need to provide him with an outlet.  I highly recommend 'busy' toys such as feeding cubes and balls in which you place your dog's regular meals and he has to work at getting the food out by rolling or nosing the cube/ball around.  If you feed your puppy 3 times a day this way, it can really get those chewing/biting tendencies out.  Also, my favorite toy for dogs who like to chew is a Kong toy (those hollow rubber beehive looking toys).  Put a teaspoon of peanut butter inside and freeze it.  Once frozen, it will keep your puppy busy until it thaws as it soothes those sore gums during teething.

As for the barking, it is one of the most difficult behaviors to work with.  I can only recommend that you do not scold or yell at the puppy when he barks, as that tends to excite or confuse them.  Ignoring him and turning your back to him when he barks may help.  Try to lather him with praise during his quiet periods (but try not to get him excited to the point of barking) and he will learn that being quiet means getting extra attention.

Puppies like to chase and bark at young children because their jerky movements and intermittent sounds excite, interest, or sometimes startle them.  If you focus on the above recommendations, it should help distract your puppy.  However, make sure you never leave your child alone with your dog.

As for the oily skin, this may change as he develops, but I would have him examined by your veterinarian prior to making any changes.  Although supplements high in omega 3 fatty acids and vitamin E may help.

Enjoy your new puppy and take care!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q

Posted by Carolyn

I was given two toy poodles and they have never been outside so they were taught to go on a rug (and now pee on my rug). How do I house break them to go in the litter box?  Thanks so much

A

I will do my best to help you with your canine litterbox training challenge.  This type of training can be very time consuming so try not to get frustrated if you do not see immediate results.  Since your new dogs were previously trained to go on a rug and you have carpeting in your house that you do not want them using, then your first roadblock will be to teach them to switch to a new ‘substrate’ (material on which you want them to urinate).  If you are keeping them on a tiled surface, then try placing a newspaper near or on the rug and when they need to urinate (after waking up, eating/drinking, etc) try to redirect them to the newspaper.  You may even need to have them on a leash indoors while you are doing this.  Use lots of praise and reward when they show any interest in the newspaper and hopefully they will began to urinate near it or hopefully on it.  Avoid punishment whey they do go on the carpet as it will only cause stress and confusion.  Once they start using the newspaper, then start moving the newspaper closer and closer each day to the litterbox you have set up.  Do not put a lid on it at first.  Only try a lid if you feel that they are ready, and even then, they may not like it.  If newspaper does not work out as a substrate, consider other substrates or purchase a substrate specifically designed for indoor dogs. Remember LOTS of praise, positive reinforcement and patience are key.

Good luck with your project and I hope you have lots of fun with your new toy poodles!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q

From Jennifer

I have taken my cat to three vets now, and I still can't seem to figure out why my cat keeps scratching himself around his eyes, ears, and chin.  He hurts himself with his constant scratching.  Please help, what can I do?

A

I’m sorry that you’re having such a difficult time getting to the bottom of your cat's scratching issue but skin issues are notoriously difficult to diagnose in many pets.  Since at least three veterinarians have already examined your cat, I’m not sure I will be able to offer much assistance but I will try to help you as best I can.

Without examining your cat and knowing what diagnostics have already been done, things that come to mind are bacterial or fungal infections, mites, and allergies.  Working up these issues will be at the discretion of your veterinarian and may include some in-depth testing.  Since your cat's scratching is focused around the head area, that may be a helpful clue.  Make sure that you allow your veterinarian to do a complete work-up for ear problems including cytology and examination of the ear with an ear scope.  Sometimes cat scratching of the head and face can even be related to dental problems.  A thorough dental exam is difficult on some cats and is sometimes only possible under general anesthetic.  One thing you could try doing if your cat is scratching his chin is to change to stainless steel feeding dishes to minimize contact reactions.   Also, consider referral to a veterinary dermatologist.

If you’re getting frustrating while waiting for answers, you could consider nail caps for your cat!  Soft Paws are vinyl nail caps that are applied to your cat’s claws with an adhesive.  They are humane and non-permanent.  Ask your veterinarian about them!

Good luck and I hope that your cat can find some comfort soon!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

cat on leash

Q

From Alessa

I have a lovely Bombay cat that I adopted last year from the San Francisco SPCA.  She is wonderful, so lively and inquisitive, and just makes our lives a joy.  She is an indoor cat but I had hoped to leash train her to go for walks with me.  However, I was advised that if I took her outside she would not be happy as an indoor cat anymore and might even get upset and claw furniture, pee on the carpets and the like.  I don't want to upset her, but she seems to love the outdoors because she is always sitting just outside the front door to our apartment when we have it open for air.  Should I forget trying to train her to walk with me?

A

Hi, Alessa!

It always makes me happy to see pet owners taking such an active interest in their pets’ well-being and mental health! 

Many indoor cats are perfectly happy with their indoor lives and get along just fine without ever having to step outside (with the exception of visits to the veterinarian).  This is not to say that these indoor cats do not need exercise and stimulation.  Quite the opposite.  Indoor cats often need more stimulation than their indoor/outdoor or exclusively outdoor counterparts. 

Some indoor cats who are experiencing behavioral problems including urinating and/or defecting outside the litter box and scratching furniture can benefit from ‘environmental enrichment’.  This can include special foraging/hunting toys, scratching posts, or even limited access to the outdoors!  Some cats are satisfied with a simple perch in a window while others enjoy actual time outdoors.  I never recommend off-leash activities outdoors with cats, especially in urban areas. 

Many cats can be successfully trained to walk or play on a harness and leash.  Not only can this benefit your cat’s mental health, but also yours as well as strengthening the human-animal bond.  Since both you and your cat seem interested, and even though your cat does not appear to have any behavioral issue,  I think this is something worth trying out but you can also discuss this with your veterinarian.  Just be sure to have your cat completely up to date on the recommended vaccinations and consider regular deworming and flea/heartworm prevention.

I’m so glad that your cat is bringing you so much joy.  Hopefully this new activity together will bring you even closer.  I know I could never be without a cat … or two.

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q

A

Hi Brandi!  This is a great question because most pet owners are unaware that their pets have actually lost any teeth until their veterinarian lets them know during an examination.

Cats have 26 baby (deciduous) teeth and 30 adult (permanent) teeth.  Dogs have 28 deciduous teeth and 42 permanent teeth!  In both dogs and cats, the deciduous teeth erupt between 3 and 8 weeks of age.  In cats, permanent teeth erupt between 11 and 24 weeks of age; 12 to 26 weeks for dogs.  Any deciduous teeth remaining beyond 6 months of age are considered ‘retained’ and should be monitored as they may require extraction. 

Food and other material can get trapped between permanent teeth and retained deciduous teeth and can lead to early periodontal disease or other problems.  Cats and dogs should never lose their permanent teeth.  If your pet does lose permanent teeth, there could be a problem and you should take them to your veterinarian for an examination and consultation.  Periodontal disease is unfortunately a very common problem in dogs and cats and can lead to other problems, even heart disease, if left unchecked.  Get in the habit of handling your pet’s teeth and mouth at an early age.  This will allow you to brush their teeth regularly (which is the best way to avoid dental problems) and will get you looking at your pet’s mouth regularly, allowing you to pick up potential problems sooner.

Thanks for the great question!

Craig Galbraith, DVM

Q:

Kristen Via Facebook

A:

Hey there Kristen!  I will do my best to answer this question, but skin problems can be complicated enough that no advice I can offer will replace a consultation by your veterinarian or a veterinary dermatologist.

While many of us are drawn to the unique look and great personality of bulldogs, the breed certainly has some well-known issues with skin conditions.  Many bulldogs experience allergies in their lifetime that often manifest as skin disease.  As a result, secondary yeast infections are common.  Having all of those wrinkles certainly does not help as they are perfect locations for the yeast to thrive!  Therefore, my primary recommendation would make every attempt to get the yeast problem as well controlled as possible and to diagnose and treat the underlying problem if possible.  Your veterinarian should be able to help you.  Sometimes a referral to a dermatologist is required in more difficult cases.  There are products specifically designed to clean areas affected by yeast such as medicated wipes and enzymatic solutions.  Many bulldog owners use MalAcetic wipes.  Ask your veterinarian if these products are right for you.  Sometimes changes in diet can greatly improve skin condition but you should always consult your veterinarian before making any dramatic diet change.